Sunday morning at the VRBO, coordinating everything, washing clothes and Nalgene bottles, realizing this is probably our last connection with civilization for a while. Tina and Aaron are both fighting a cold with steady application of Theraflu and Tylenol.

Aaron picked an excellent breakfast spot just off Main Street. He tried eggs benedict, Tina had bison patties. A nice send-off for our son who’ll hang out at Bozeman airport until 5:00, then layover in Seattle before reaching Phoenix. Direct flight from Bozeman to Phoenix can’t be more than an hour and a half, but he’ll spend 12 hours waiting. His phone doesn’t work, so he’s relying on Wi-Fi WhatsApp messaging with friends Natalie and Isaiah who live in Phoenix.

What a trooper and treat to spend time with him this summer and week. Like Canyon yesterday, watching your child head off in a different direction in a foreign part of the world feels unsettling as a parent. Yet we know he’s fully capable of finding his way.

That left returning the rental car and suiting up for “Phase 4” of this adventure: Tina and Jonathan on a 2014 Yamaha FJR 1300 motorcycle.

Let me say—this is the perfect bike for this adventure. Truly comfortable, great weather protection when needed, fun, and reliable. This is however the first time Tina and I have really ridden on a motorcycle for an extended period. We’ve done lots of other adventures together – but somehow we’re both a bit nervous about how we’ll handle this together.

We’re getting better at packing. Panniers and top case are stuffed, but we have everything needed for camping and cooking, able to stay three or four days before doing laundry. I’ve got a full-size digital SLR camera, two Nalgene bottles, maps, tablet, keyboard. Lots of stuff others might view as non-essential, but we rode for just over an hour and 20 minutes for the first leg. Relatively cool—high 70s, low 80s with rain risk. Light mist cooled the air, but we never bothered with rain gear. That got us from Bozeman to around Butte, where we stopped at Arby’s for a Jamocha shake (me) and apple turnover (Tina). Nice to be off the road briefly.

Then we rode almost two hours non-stop to Missoula for gas, and by then we were both toasted. It hit 86-87 degrees for most of that ride—hotter than anything I’d experienced in Colorado and Wyoming. Tina’s still suffering from her cold, and this was our first time riding these kinds of miles—what will be 350 for the day.

After gas, we hit Cracker Barrel for an early dinner, then followed Tina’s route on Highway 93 through Ronan and Elton, ending in Kalispell. Lovely scenic ride through Indian reservation and casinos, with mountain ranges on both sides. Toward the end, we reached Flathead Lake, and the road skirts the lakeshore on the west side. It’s a long, linear lake with graceful curves and well-behaved traffic. The posted speed was 70 but we were leisurely in the low 60s. Tina says she’s comfortable, and it’s a pleasure having her company.

We grabbed a hotel room in Kalispell. I ran out for groceries while Tina rested. We cancelled our St. Mary Campground reservation for Tuesday, opting for a two-day stay at Duck Lake—a primitive campground managed by the Blackfeet tribe. Pit toilets and picnic tables, no tap water or showers. But supposedly beautiful and just 20 minutes from St. Mary. Goal: get up early tomorrow and get through the gate at Going to the Sun road before they restrict it for Eastbound travelers. Then start two days exploring Glacier National Park.

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